Biberacher Hütte to home

A sad end to my trip when ill health forced me to return home.

Overnight and this morning I was not feeling well. I considered my options, whether to continue or return home, deciding one thing and then the opposite. However I did not want to pass on any germs to others in the confined space of the huts I would be visiting, spoiling their holiday as well as my own. This convinced me to abandon my trip although I expect by tomorrow I will be feeling fine.

Faced with the options for returning home, I decided Zurich was the most promising airport so I picked a route down that headed in a suitably westerly direction. Its first long, steeply downhill section was part of the route I had originally planned to walk anyway, to reach Goppinger Hütte. The thin downhill trail needed care as the recent rain had made it slippery although today the sun was shining most of the time. As I descended I left the high grassland and dropped into trees reaching fields of hay and grass at the bottom. Here I joined a track down the valley reaching the village of Sonntag, 10 or more kilometres later. A pleasant walk on easy gravel tracks and single track roads, through trees and green fields, by small settlements, following the course of a fast flowing river. There were some waterfalls with large drops higher up the valley. 

Route down from Biberacher hutte towards Gopinger Hutte, which crosses the small bridge that can be seen in this valley.

Valley of the Lutz, which I walked down to the bus stop at Sonntag.

At Sonntag I caught the bus. Bright sunlight made using my phone to see the routes of buses and subsequent trains went exceedingly difficult, although at least I could access the internet, unlike at the hut. Persevering, I managed to catch a bus to Thüringen, the kindly driver, sending my confusion then pointed out where the bus to Bludenz railway station went from. I chose this station as there was a direct train to Zurich. 

A plane tomorrow will take me back to London. However buying plane tickets and booking a hotel last minute was expensive but I lacked time to optimise my arrangements. Still feeling "under the weather" so a decision to return was probably wise. As my long trip down from the mountain tops showed, falling seriously ill at a remote spot in the Alps could mean help was a long time coming.

Damüls to Biberacher Hütte on E4 Alpine route: Day 3

Another challenging day although the sections of Alpine trail with wire rope to hang onto were fun.

After an enormous breakfast I started the day visiting the SPAR store to restock with supplies. At around 10 am I started up the trail to a nearby Ski resort, just as the morning rain was finishing. Although uphill it was easy enough being on a tarmac road for much of the way, which ran below a modern "galleried" road, where a concrete "roof" protects the cars from rock falls or avalanches. 

From the ski resort a gravel vehicle track took me upwards. Although the steep climb seemed unrelenting, the track did level off in time. Black lizards stood on the path, not moving in the wet , cool weather. Then paths across a promontory lead me to a track which took me way down in a grass covered bowl surrounded by mountains, losing most the height I had so slowly climbed. Frustrating. On climbing up the base of the other side of the valley I arrived at what I knew from the guidebook was a seriously, steep climb to the top of Hochschere. At its base a sign warned this was an Alpine experience, not for those prone to dizziness. Forewarned I laboriously gained height. The climb was steep and long. Near the top, as it became more rock and loose stones than grass, steel cables anchored to the rock gave me something to pull myself up with. Climbing over the final section of worn rock I rewarded myself with a Twix and apple sitting on a patch of grass. Thinking the difficult part was over I was feeling quite pleased. I was mistaken in this belief. On restarting it was steeply downhill, cables helping in places, zig-zagging back and for. My GPS then showed the path contouring along the mountainside. Easy I thought! Wrong. Although it was true the path did not rise or fall too much, I neglected to take note of the closely spaced contours indicating a very steep slope. The path was narrow. At one place a rock fall had destroyed part of it. Cables helped in places and at one near vertical slab bars had been anchored in the rock for you to step on while holding the cable. Not as scary as it sounds as the drop below to a stream was not that great. The rock was wet from the morning's rain and the loose, shifting stones added to the difficulty. When I was not using my hands to hang onto cables my trekking poles helped maintain my balance. However there were no great vertical drops to make we "dizzy".

Once out of the steep slopes I had to contend with cow damage to the path. Today the gentler slopes were grazed by cows, their bells ringing a cacophony so evocative of the Alps. I also saw a flock of goats. The problem with cows is they like to follow the path, turning into into a dense array of mud filled holes. Even beside the path, the grass hides hoof-sized holes full of water and mud. This makes for difficult walking and dirty trouser legs. From the path there were some seriously good views of the surrounding mountains, their snow streak rocky peaks pointing to the sky.

One of the cows responsible for trail damage!

Looking back at the path traversing the steep mountainside.

The afternoon's hike was longer than I anticipated, not reaching the hut until 5:45 pm on increasingly wobbly knees. Just in time for dinner at 6:00 pm. Although I had only see one other hiker today, and only then in the distance, I was surprised to find the hut very busy. At dinner, I made a fool of myself not noticing a sign on one of the tables with my name on it, indicating where I was meant to sit. (I also neglected to pay my bill at the end of the evening and was chased for it in the morning as if I was trying to leave without paying. Huts have lots of rules....on notices in German).

After dinner I sat outside and watched the light changing in the surrounding mountains. Too many clouds for a good sunset but pretty nevertheless. As the darkness creeped in, I could see lights, far away at the mouth of the valley, of some village or town preparing for sleep.

View from Biberacher Hutte as darkness fell.

Bregenzer Hütte to Damûls on E4 Alpine route: Day 2

With a 1700 m ascent the 29 kilometres hike today was really too much.

I had a restless night, it was hot and I was sweating. Heavy rain, thunder and lightning around midnight should have cooled things down but did not seem to, I worried I was feverish, a little sunburn on my arms added to a feeling of heat. A headache developed and with my digging out some Anadin and numerous trips to the toilet I probably disturbed the hut's guardian. Fortunately I was the only one in residence so there was no one in my room to disturb. 

Despite a poor night I was surprisingly fresh and eager to start this morning despite the intermittent rain that continued throughout the morning.  Roads and forest tracks were a thing of yesterday.  Today it was mainly paths, narrow or wide, easy to walk on or made muddy by cows, across grass or over awkwardly arranged stones. The first hill I crossed without too much trouble, buoyed by the morning's enthusiasm, the next hill was larger and more of an effort. Then there was a pleasant if tiring ridgeway section, with views back to Bodensee. I could see the Rhine, its levees just rising out of the water as they snaked into the lake. Looking down on the low white cloud in the valleys, I wondered if it was raining down there as well.

Ridge walk by Obersehrensattel.

Looking down on the valley to the north west, Bodensee in the distance..

Fortunately the rain had stopped when I faced climbing up the mountain of Hoher Freschen, at 2004 metres the highest point of the day.  It was not the height alone that made it tough but the steepness of the climb to the summit. The very steep section began with a sign warning you needed experience, good boots and must be sure footed to tackle this section. A steep sided, knife edge ridge followed before the main climb. In places wire stretched up the path giving me something to pull myself up with, helpful as though there were plenty of foot and hand holds the rock was wet from the recent rain. There were not many people on the trail today however a couple having lunch under the summit's cross greeted me as I rose over the final rock.

Path up to Hoher Freschen.

It was then a 15 minute, rather gentler walk down to Freschenhaus, a hut where I bought a coke and some goulash soup, and refilled my water bottle. In retrospect I should have stayed the night there. I should not have been guided by the daily stages in the guidebook, which are based on going in the opposite direction. As most of the large 1700 metre ascent was in the morning I was tired in the afternoon which made the walk less enjoyable, even though the sun came out and the path crossed slopes covered with colourful wild flowers. Although there was less climbing in the afternoon the path was not always good with rocks and mud making the going slow.

Tired, for the final section into Damuls I followed the road, rather than the trail which went back up the hillside before dropping down into the town. The road was at least flat so my knees, which were getting weak, were not required to avoid or balance on the larger rocks, or navigate muddy slopes. I arrived at my Bed & Breakfast at 6:00 pm just as heavy rain and a thunderstorm was beginning. Nearby was a hotel and restaurant so after a shower and changing into clean clothes I rushed over through the rain for some dinner. Unfortunately I was told the restaurant was for hotel guests only. I started out for the next hotel cum restaurant but I was getting so wet in the heavy rain I gave up. I had been carrying some "emergency rations" and these had to suffice for my tea tonight.

Alberschwende to Bregenzer Hütte on E4 Alpine route: Day 1

A short first day with some steep mountains to climb.

Alberschwende is where the E4's southern and northern routes across Austria separate. As I had previously walked the northern alternative, the village was the obvious place to begin the southern, Alpine variant. To reach this starting point I walked into Bregenz and caught a bus from the Railway station. The Sunday bus wound around numerous suburban streets picking up ladies at the frequent stops. One of their dogs looked at me with inquiring eyes from beneath the seat in front of me.

Eventually the bus left its winding route through houses and headed up a steep tree lined valley beside a cascading stream. The sign for Alberschwende appeared and I left at its centre. From here I started walking, uphill from the beginning, following a small road which wound its way up the steep hill among green slopes on which hay was being cut. Periodically there were dark brown, multi-storey wooden farms that looked like they had far too many rooms for the likely inhabitants judging by the number of lace trimmed, shuttered windows. The smell of cows in their barns alternated with that of freshly cut grass.

Looking down from Bödele.

Eventually the tarmac of the road decayed, then the route headed up a very steep path through woodland. Mountain Bikers were also using the trail. I passed a party pushing their bikes uphill, then they passed me at speed as they raced down the other side. At times bikes racing down hills made me nervous of being hit.

Bödele was a scattered settlement with a few restaurants. Not wanting a heavy meal I carried on. Much of the rest of the route was through tall conifer trees. They gave welcome shade as the day was hot, sweat accumulating on my tee shirt. 

Forest on way to Bregenzer Hutte.

I stopped at Lustenauer Hütte for a coke and topfenstrudel. The latter was a new experience. A creamy cheese filling in a flaky pastry case served warm with a "wild berry" sauce. Apparently a traditional Austrian dish, I might have preferred it served cold...

Bregenzer Hütte where I had booked to stay the night was not much further on. After a shower I settled in the open air terrace to listen to a group playing guitar and accordion and singing songs that were vaguely familiar to me, and well known to some in the audience.

E-paths 50 years anniversary meeting

Today a celebration of 50 years of E-parhs, and a boat trip down the Bodensee.

After leaving Fischerhaus camping I walked through an avenue of young plane trees and by some enigmatic sculptures to return to Konstanz. I found members of the European Ramblers Association (ERA) committee  preparing for the meeting to celebrate the E-paths anniversary on the terrace of the Council building, a historic setting as the building was some 500 years old. The first European Long Distance Paths were a little younger at 50 years old and the E1, E5 and E4 all pass close by. Those attending were led to a plaque celebrating the foundation of the E-paths among the trees in the nearby Stadtgarten. After the president of the ERA stood for pictures beneath the sign we returned to the Council Building. On the way video was taken of various people answering questions about the E-paths for social media, including me!  On the terrace a jazz band played "Oh when the saints, go marching in" and there were various speeches. In one I was awarded a certificate for walking the E4. Then there was some food and drink. Everyone was very friendly and I was able to meet people I had corresponded with or seen on Zoom. I even gave an interview for local radio!

The Council building at Konstanz.

I left to catch the 12:40 boat to Bregenz. A lovely trip under clear, blue skies passing close to sailing boats, their sails made brilliant white by the reflected sunlight. The many lakeside towns the vessel stopped at had pretty houses with steeply pitched red roofs and dormer windows, old churches in various styles, and castles, interspersed with more modern buildings. Sunlight sparkled off the water. In the distance to the south and west, mountains rose, grey blue in the haze, some of which I would climb tomorrow. 

Bodensee.

My campsite at Bregenz was again beside the Bodensee, and the afternoon was hot, making me determined to have a short swim. Possibly a mistake, the nearby beach was very pebbly and I struggled to stay upright with my sensitive feet. Still, the water and subsequent shower was very refreshing. 

After a beer, salad and schnitzel I took a walk along the lakeshore, watching people enjoying the Saturday evening. The sun hung low in the sky, silhouetting groups around barbeques, drinking a few beers and bathing (obviously with tougher feet than me).  Still warm, without wind, many were in their swimming costumes revealing tanned bodies. Older (fully dressed) couples walked along quietly hand in hand. The troubles of the world seemed far away. 

Travelling to Konstanz

I spent the morning yesterday repacking my rucksack a few times in an attempt to make it look less big and bulky. Try as I might to pack light, weighing everything and only taking what I believe is necessary, my rucksack still looks huge and, well, unprofessional. Although hiking is not a profession, not a job where a boss or customers will evaluate me, I still feel there are standards to aspire to. Another reason for repacking is because I wonder if I have packed something, even though I have checked it off on my list. Am I getting a bit obsessive? Maybe, the act of leaving is always a bit stressful. Once I was on the bus to Gatwick airport there was little I could do about any worries, just look out at the motorway or read my kindle.

On arrival at the Gatwick North Terminal bus stop I had to find my way to the hotel I had booked. Went the wrong way. Ended up crossing busy roads, although there were a few “public footpath” signs that looked distinctly out of place. The hotel entrance was packed with people waiting for lifts. Check in was at a computer. Computer gave me a room on the ninth floor. The packed lifts did not look attractive especially with the recent Covid pandemic, and the nine flights of stairs were good practice for climbing the Alps. The hotel's restaurant was similarly packed with aspiring travellers. No tables until 9:45 pm and I had foolishly pre-bought my dinner so I had to wait!

Gatwick at 4:15 am in the morning was similarly full of people trying to drop off their bags. However the long queues were at least moving towards the computerised bag drop. I hoped the baggage system would cope with my rucksack but as computer whisked it away it was too late to have second thoughts. There had been much in the news about Gatwick struggling to cope with people returning to flying after two years of Covid restrictions. With the large number of people I was not surprised. Fortunately the vastly outnumbered staff briskly keep the crowds moving, although as a breeding ground for Covid it was excellent, few masks were worn. In the departure lounge long queues of people desperate for a coffee at this unnaturally early time of day formed at every potential outlet, generally blocking up the corridors. When my queue eventually carried me to the person taking my order for a Starbucks coffee and some breakfast I was surprised by how cheerful he was, personally making sure I got my coffee from Maria, the barista beside him. By his smiling service he gave me a burst of happiness and a smile in addition to a croissant.

Immigration in Zurich was a little different from my last trip. I could not go through the EU lane following Britain's exit from the organisation. The border guard wanted to know where I was going and stamped my passport. The stamp is essential so that you can prove that you have not overstayed the post-Brexit limitations on how long British people can stay in the EU for, a restriction which adds to passport queues and can only tend to reduce the amount of money spent by people of my country on long trips to Europe.

Heavy rain streaked down the windows of my train as it pulled into Kreuzlingen. In the time it took to walk to my lakeside campsite it has petered out, however the cool weather was in contrast to my visit to the Bodensee a few years ago. Then the warm weather encouraged many to bath in the large lake, and I had been envious that I had not brought my swimming trunks, but today the cool weather made the water uninviting. 

Konstanz was a few kilometres away. I walked there after a good lunch at a restaurant by my campsite (which included pike, a freshwater fish, from the lake I assumed). I walked from Kreuzlingen in Switzerland to Konstanz in Germany without realising, the towns continue into each other, it was only when I tried to pay for a coke with Swiss francs that I realised what the discrete "Zoll" (customs) sign referred to. I walked around the old town, decorated with balls of flowers or coloured umbrellas hung above the streets. Plenty of people were around. I sat in a pew, contemplating life, for a while in one of the old churches.

Street in Konstanz.

The sun is now setting over Konstanz. I can see it from the waterside path beside the campsite. Now the skies have cleared and the wind dropped it has become a pleasant evening. People are enjoying a beer by the water, and chatting in the overcrowded patch of campsite that overlooks the water. I hope I do not disturb them too much when I visit the toilet tonight.

Sunset over Bodensee (Lake Constance).

 

E4 Alpine route in Austria

The E4 Long Distance European Path or E-Path runs from Tarifa in Spain to Larnaca in Cyprus. Where it follows the arc of the Alps there are two alternatives: a northerly route through the Bavarian Alps and the Austrian Salzkammergut and a more southerly trail following the Nordalpenweg 1, the also known as the E4 Alpine route, through the high mountains of Austria alone (2000 metres plus). I chose to walk the northerly route in 2016 as the Nordalpenweg alternative looked too difficult, for experienced alpinists only it seemed. Having completed the entire E4, by walking it in sections, I wrote a book on my travels ("Six pairs of boots, Spain to Cyprus on the E4 Trail") and as a result have been invited to a meeting in Konstanz, to celebrate 50 years of the E-Paths. Konstanz is a town on the German Swiss border beside Lake Constance, which is locally known as Bodensee. This seemed a good opportunity to try just a little of the E4 Alpine trail which starts near Bregenz at the other end of the lake.

One might ask why I am better able to hike this route now, when I avoided it six years earlier. On the plus I have gained more experience, having been on a scrambling course and walked the E4 in Bulgaria, a high mountain route. Klaus Reitberger, a fellow E4 walker, has also encouraged me. On the negative side, I developed a bad knee on my walk from Lands End to John o'Groats a year ago. Although I have managed to walk a considerable distance on it in the UK and Ireland, these trips have only crossed gentle hills and my knee does not improve. The steep climbs and descents of the Alps will be a challenge. I had hoped to mitigate this by varying the length that I walked each day, according to the performance of my knee and the weather, however, the mountain huts were getting pretty booked up and this forced me to commit to my daily distances by reserving all my accommodation for this trip. I could have wild camped I suppose, but apart from being illegal in Austria (probably), huts offer the chance of food, a toilet, a shower and some company. As there are limited opportunities to resupply with food on the route, most of it is high in the mountains, staying in huts means I will not have the carry the weight of days of supplies up and down mountains. I have tried to pack light...but never seem to achieve that objective, my (65 litres) pack looks overloaded and bulky, despite me repacking it a few times. One reason is that I have packed some warm clothes as I fear it may be cold in the evenings or in the rain, I shall see if this was worthwhile. I am also taking my tent as I plan to camp the first few nights by Bodensee to attend the 50 year birthday celebration of the E-paths. Campsites beside the lake are beautiful and the hotels and hostels busy and not cheap.

In the following posts you can see how I get on and whether I was wise to attempt such a mountainous trip.