Bregenzer Hütte to Damûls on E4 Alpine route: Day 2

With a 1700 m ascent the 29 kilometres hike today was really too much.

I had a restless night, it was hot and I was sweating. Heavy rain, thunder and lightning around midnight should have cooled things down but did not seem to, I worried I was feverish, a little sunburn on my arms added to a feeling of heat. A headache developed and with my digging out some Anadin and numerous trips to the toilet I probably disturbed the hut's guardian. Fortunately I was the only one in residence so there was no one in my room to disturb. 

Despite a poor night I was surprisingly fresh and eager to start this morning despite the intermittent rain that continued throughout the morning.  Roads and forest tracks were a thing of yesterday.  Today it was mainly paths, narrow or wide, easy to walk on or made muddy by cows, across grass or over awkwardly arranged stones. The first hill I crossed without too much trouble, buoyed by the morning's enthusiasm, the next hill was larger and more of an effort. Then there was a pleasant if tiring ridgeway section, with views back to Bodensee. I could see the Rhine, its levees just rising out of the water as they snaked into the lake. Looking down on the low white cloud in the valleys, I wondered if it was raining down there as well.

Ridge walk by Obersehrensattel.

Looking down on the valley to the north west, Bodensee in the distance..

Fortunately the rain had stopped when I faced climbing up the mountain of Hoher Freschen, at 2004 metres the highest point of the day.  It was not the height alone that made it tough but the steepness of the climb to the summit. The very steep section began with a sign warning you needed experience, good boots and must be sure footed to tackle this section. A steep sided, knife edge ridge followed before the main climb. In places wire stretched up the path giving me something to pull myself up with, helpful as though there were plenty of foot and hand holds the rock was wet from the recent rain. There were not many people on the trail today however a couple having lunch under the summit's cross greeted me as I rose over the final rock.

Path up to Hoher Freschen.

It was then a 15 minute, rather gentler walk down to Freschenhaus, a hut where I bought a coke and some goulash soup, and refilled my water bottle. In retrospect I should have stayed the night there. I should not have been guided by the daily stages in the guidebook, which are based on going in the opposite direction. As most of the large 1700 metre ascent was in the morning I was tired in the afternoon which made the walk less enjoyable, even though the sun came out and the path crossed slopes covered with colourful wild flowers. Although there was less climbing in the afternoon the path was not always good with rocks and mud making the going slow.

Tired, for the final section into Damuls I followed the road, rather than the trail which went back up the hillside before dropping down into the town. The road was at least flat so my knees, which were getting weak, were not required to avoid or balance on the larger rocks, or navigate muddy slopes. I arrived at my Bed & Breakfast at 6:00 pm just as heavy rain and a thunderstorm was beginning. Nearby was a hotel and restaurant so after a shower and changing into clean clothes I rushed over through the rain for some dinner. Unfortunately I was told the restaurant was for hotel guests only. I started out for the next hotel cum restaurant but I was getting so wet in the heavy rain I gave up. I had been carrying some "emergency rations" and these had to suffice for my tea tonight.